How to Make An Adjustable Strap: Tutorial

Posted under Adjustable Strap Set,Bag Makin' Supplies,Blog,DIY,Tutorials,Updates by admin on Monday 27 June 2011 at 6:58 am

Here are a two very detailed tutorials on how to make an adjustable strap. Creating an adjustable strap is a little tricky because you have to weave in both the adjustable slide and rectangle ring in the correct position. However, these two tutorials do a great job in explaining when and how to weave in the adjustable slide and rectangle ring.


  1. 1 Adjustable Slide (The width of the slide must be the width of your handle)
  2. Fabric (2 to 4 times as wide as the finished handle) or webbing
  3. 1 Connection piece (This is most traditionally a rectangle ring but this can be an o ring or d ring as well)
  4. Optional 2 connection piece (To make the finished bag balanced, you may want to add the second connection piece. this is not required because you can just sew one side of the handle directly onto your bag. This optional piece is marked #4 on the second tutorial.)

If you are a very visual person, this is a great youtube video created by Homespun Threads.

If you like step by step written instructions, I have found this tutorial at DIY Bag Patterns very nicely written up.

At Tantalizing Stitches, you can find bag making supplies such as rectangle rings, slides, o rings, d rings, and much more. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact

Magento Bundled Product Idiosyncrocies – removing “As low as” price

Posted under Blog,Business Tips,Magento,Tutorials,Updates by admin on Sunday 12 June 2011 at 7:27 am

If you want to remove the “As low as” price on the catalog view, then edit:


If your theme does not have this file, copy it from:

Then, comment out the code surrounding: <p class=”minimal-price”> ….. </p>

Read more about making changes to Magento for your Bundled Product configuration.

<p class=”minimal-price”> ….. </p>

Key Rings Demystified!

Posted under Bag Makin' Supplies,Blog,DIY,Key Rings,Tutorials by admin on Tuesday 31 May 2011 at 7:26 pm

Key rings are so simple yet so complicated. Deciding on the finish is only the first step. Then, you need to decide on the size.

Its easy to size out your key rings when you have them in your hand since you can tell if you like the size. However, there are several measurements you must consider before shopping online.

There are three measurements, two of which can be used to calculate the third measurement. These are:

  1. Outside diameter
  2. Inside diameter
  3. Gauge (width of the metal)

Although the picture to the left is an O ring, it will help visualize the various measurements I am referring to.

If you like mathematics then you can see that:

[outside diameter] = [inside diameter] + 2x[gauge].
Don’t forget that you have to add the gauge twice because we are measuring the diameter. (At one point I had only added it in once, causing me massive confusion.)

When I first started TS, I did not realize there was an inside and outside diameter. So, when I switched suppliers I accidentally ordered slightly larger key rings. After speaking with my supplier, I realized it was because my previous supplier spoke in regards to the outside diameter while my new supplier described items in terms of inside diameter. Most people simply speak of “diameter” so if you are looking for an exact size key ring, make sure you ask whether they are referring to the inside or outside diameter.

So now, in terms of TS key rings, here are the sizes (based on inside diameter) and finishes we provide:

  1. 21.6mm copper split key rings (1.7mm gauge)
  2. 23mm nickel and antique brass split key rings (2mm diameter)
  3. 25mm antique brass split key rings (2mm diameter)

If you are looking for a larger or smaller key ring, please email . We are gradually increasing our selection and would love to hear what you are looking for.

Offer Your Newsletter to Paypal Checkout Customers

Posted under Blog,Business Tips,Tutorials,Updates by admin on Friday 13 May 2011 at 1:47 pm

Previously, I shared with you some tips on possible email vendors and ways to gain subscribers. I mentioned that you can ask paypal checkout customers if they would like to subscribe to your newsletter. This is how to set it up.

Should You Do This?

In general I would say, “Of course!” But after reading some etsy posts, I have decided to stop doing this. This is because the new etsy checkout system prevents this information from showing in your details section of your paypal transaction. (See below for information on how to retrieve the information.) Because of this, your customer is always asked whether she would like to receive your newsletter. However, you will not know whether she wants to subscribe.

Say you do set this up. You asked the customer (via paypal) if she would like to subscribe to your newsletter. She says yes but you don’t know it because she purchased via etsy. So then, you later send an email and also include another invitation to your newsletter. She may simply ignore the question because she is thinking, “Duh, I already said yes! Why do you keep asking me?”

I sell on several venues but I’ve decided that that the etsy problem is hampering the results of my paypal subscription option so I’ve deactivated this feature.

If you sell on artfire or zibbet, then I highly suggest adding this option to your paypal checkout.

Setting It Up

Go to paypal and log in.

In paypal, click on “Profile”.


Then, if you are in the new profile setup, click on “My Selling Tools”

Then, once you click that, you will find “Custom Payment Pages“. Click on “Update”.

Click on “Options”.

Then, at the bottom you will see “Offer Promotional Emails”. Check mark that.


Finding Your Subscribers

This is the more time consuming part. To find your subscribers, you must click on every payment detail.

Then, while in the details screen, you scroll to the very bottom. If you see “Subscribed (email address)” then you’ve got a winner.

If you don’t see any of this at the bottom, that means the customer did not check mark the subscription box.

How to Install DIY Key FOB Set Hardware

Posted under Bag Makin' Supplies,Blog,DIY,Tutorials,Updates by admin on Tuesday 10 May 2011 at 9:30 am

The not so new fad are these clever FOB sets. They can be used as an extension of your key chain for easy identification or, if long enough, as an easy way to carry your keys (anything in my hands are immediately placed somewhere and never to be found.)

Some people also use the FOB kit to create the strap part of the wristlet.

The FOB kit is easily assembled. To make a basic fob, choose your choice of 1.25″ cotton webbing. (For more personality, sew a ribbon onto the cotton webbing.)

Fold the webbing in half (if you added ribbon, make sure the ribbon faces outwards.)

Then, sandwich the webbing inside the flat area of the Key Fob Hardware.

Use pliars to close shut. (You may want to protect the metal by covering it with scrap fabric to prevent the pliars from scratching it.)

It takes practice but the end result is your own very key FOB.

If you don’t feel like making one (or perhaps you don’t have all those unique webbing, ribbons, or embroidery machine, check out Paper on Parade on Zibbet. She has a great selection of sizes and styles that you’ll love.

How to Install Pronged Magnetic Snaps

Posted under Bag Makin' Supplies,Blog,Pronged Magnetic Snaps,Tutorials,Updates by admin on Friday 9 July 2010 at 7:42 am

I often receive questions about the best way to install pronged magnetic snaps. To this end, I have written many emails and messages about the same subject but failed to make it easy on both you and me by posting my answer online. Awhile ago I re-wrote the directions on and thought it would be even easier if I provided this information on my own website.

I wrote this answer to the question:
How do you sew magnetic snaps onto a purse or handbag?
There are a couple of different types of magnetic snaps but the most popular type is the prong type. One set comes with a female part (its magnetic with a dimple in the middle), a male part (non-magnetic and fits in the female part), and two washers to secure the parts in place.

The instructions really depend on where you decide to install this snap. In general, make sure that you only intend to have the magnetic side showing as the opposite side looks very unappealing. Most people install these into the lining of the bag so if you do, make sure to install these before you sew the lining on.

First, you need to determine where you want to install the snaps. To do this, align the washers on the fabric where you want your snap and place a mark on the back side of your fabric. These marks are where you will make slits so that the prongs of the snaps can fit in place.

Second, make slits on the marks you made. I suggest making the slits smaller than necessary because if you make them too large, your snaps will move around and will not be so secure. Also, many people apply different techniques to prevent ripping of the slits. (The tear is caused by the pulling apart of the strong magnetic snaps – the tear is usually at the bottom of the slit). Some people treat the slits as button holes and sew the slits that way. If you do this, make sure that sewing you do cannot be seen and is hidden behind the snap.

Other techniques include applying interfacing (I suggest the iron on). If you do this, I suggest ironing the interfacing on and then cutting the slits.

I’ve also used plastic canvas as support. I cut a piece of plastic canvas that is larger than the washer and stick the piece in between the fabric and washer.

As the previous author suggested, Fray Check could also be used. Just make sure that you don’t end up gluing the wrong things together.

Third, install the female or male part by placing the piece on the good side of your fabric so that the prongs end up on the back side of the fabric. Then, place the washer over the prongs and fold the prongs toward the center. I suggest using pliers to fold the prongs over.

Make sure everything is nice and snug and repeat to install the second part.

Grammy’s Rosy Cloche Pattern

Posted under Blog,Crochet,free pattern by admin on Sunday 11 October 2009 at 11:33 am

cloche1Grammy’s Rosy Cloche was inspired by my Japanese Grandma’s (obaasama) rosy pink yarn. It was originally part of a project gone unfinished in the basement for a knitted double layered and reversible skirt. While ripping out the unfinished project, I came up with this pattern.

Grammy’s Rosy Cloche 2Like all my patterns, I like to make it easily alterable to any size and I try to make swatching a minimum (no swatching needed but those that insist, swatch as you go).

If you like this pattern, why not – send me a picture of your finished cloche, create a link to my blog, or make a donation to support the puppies in need?

A pdf version of this pattern will be available shortly.


This pattern is protected to the maximum extent provided by the United States and international copyright laws except as licensed below:

  1. You may print this work for personal use only as long as the print contains this copyright and limited license section.
  2. Patterns derived from this work may be distributed by the derivative author with the same or more expansive limited license provided here as long as the derived pattern acknowledges its derivation of this pattern by including the words “derived from Grammy’s Rosy Cloche pattern available at”.
  3. Articles made by this pattern or articles made by a pattern derived from this pattern may not be sold in any way. The crafter is free to gift the finished items or donate them to charity. If you would like to sell them, please contact me.
  4. You may display your articles as you please and do not hesitate to post pictures of your marvelous work!
  5. Linking to this page is highly encouraged! Please refer your friends to this pattern with a link.

If you have any questions about this limited license, please contact me by email at Otherwise please enjoy!


The cloche is made in the round from the top down. It begins with six stitches. Each round increases by six stitches until the diameter (not circumference – lay cloche flat and measure) of the cloche measures at least 6.5 inches. (Round 6 was where my cloche reached just over 6.5 inches). Towards the end, stitches are decreased (Round 11). The decreasing section should be tailored to fit the circumference of the receiver’s head. At this point, multiple rows of decreases can be made, depending on how large you would like the cloche to be. In addition, if you would like the cloche longer, add more rows between the decrease rounds and the single crochet round. Add a flower of your choice.

MATERIALS (choose anything but for reference this is what I used)

f sized crochet hook
2 colors of yarn – fingering weight acrylic or acrylic/wool blend yarn (I don’t really know what it is because it was in Obaasama’s yarn stash!)


  • After each round, do not turn.
  • Each bobble is always followed by a chain stitch.
  • Each bobble is stitched into a chain 1 space.
  • Unless stated otherwise, chain at beginning of row is not considered a stitch.


Slip Stitch (ss)

Single Crochet (sc)

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc)
yarn over, insert hook around post from front to back, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops. See Stitch Diva for a step by step explanation.

NOTE: I learned this technique from Josi Hannon Madera’s Perfect Pencil Skirt pattern.
1 ch, 1 ss in next stitch

The First Stitch (1stBobble): 5 double crochet bobble stitch followed by one slip stitch
Chain 3, yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, (insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops) x 3, yarn over, pull through five loops, chain 1. See NexStitch for a video tutorial.

The Stitch (Bobble): 5 double crochet bobble stitch followed by one slip stitch
yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, (insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops) x 4, yarn over, pull through six loops, chain 1.

Decrease (Bobble Dec): 5 double crochet bobble stitch connected with another 5 double crochet bobble stitch
Note: Same as bobble above except do not pull through all six loops at the end and do not chain 1. Instead, with six loops on hook, insert hook in next chain 1 space and begin another bobble. Then, pull through 11 loops, chain 1.

yarn over, (insert hook in next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops, yarn over, (insert hook in same stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, pull through two loops) x 4, yarn over) x 2, pull through 11 loops, chain 1.


Begin with a magic adjustable ring.
Round 1: In ring — 1stBobble, 5 Bobble in ring. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stBobble. Do not turn (see note above). [6]

Round 2: (in each chain 1 space of previous row – see note above) 1stBobble, Bobble in same stitch, (Bobble, Bobble in same stitch) x 5. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stDCBS. [12]

Round 3: 1stBobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble (Bobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble) x 5. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stBobble. [18]

Round 4: 1stBobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble (Bobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble) x 5. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stBobble. [24]

Round 5: 1stBobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble (Bobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble) x 5. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stBobble. [30]

Round 6: 1stBobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble (Bobble, Bobble in same stitch, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble) x 5. Slip stitch to third chain of 1stBobble. [36]

[NOTE: add more rounds and increase six stitches per round until you reach just over 6.5 inches in diameter; if it is over 6.5 inches in diameter, skip some of the increasing rounds.]

Round 7-10: one Bobble in each chain 1 space. Slip stitch to third chain of 1st Bobble. [36]

Round 11: (Bobble dec, Bobble, Bobble, Bobble) x 7, Bobble. Slip stitch to third chain of 1st Bobble. [29]

[NOTE: add more decreasing rounds if the cloche is too large.]

Round 12: one Bobble in each chain 1 space. Slip stitch to third chain of 1st Bobble. [29]

[NOTE: add more rounds of Round 12 if you would like the cloche longer.]

Round 13: chain 1, sc into each bobble and each chain 1 space. [58]

Round 14: CHANGE COLOR – see Stitch Diva for technique. 1 fpdc into each sc. [58]

Round 15: ric-rac: chain 1, slip stitch into joining stitch, (chain 1, slip stitch into next stitch) x 57, Slip stitch to first chain. [58]

Matching Ribbon Cloche

Posted under Crochet,DIY,free pattern,Sales by admin on Thursday 12 July 2007 at 7:40 am

In Bloom Ribbon ClocheI made this matching ribbon cloche right after I finished putting together obaasama’s ribbon vest but I just never posted it. I’ll be posting a pattern for it soon (I hope). I just sold it in my etsy store (I originally designed the In Bloom Flower for this hat.)
In Bloom Ribbon Cloche

Matching Ribbon Cloche Set - Small

Grammy's Rosy Cloche

Posted under Charities,Crochet,DIY,free pattern by admin on Wednesday 13 June 2007 at 12:02 pm

Grammy’s Rosy Cloche 1I’ve had much of my Japanese grandmother’s (obaasama) yarn stash for almost a year but couldn’t figure out what to make out of it. She was a knitter – I am a crocheter – and the difference between our stash was understandable. She liked delicate natural yarn, mostly mohair and wool. I like fat yarn. I felt bad tripling or quadrupling the yarn so I just left it there, in my yarn room.

Grammy’s Rosy Cloche 2This week, I finally got out my f hook and took a plunge at some of her thicker yarns. Obaasama had started to knit a skirt with this particular yarn, some kind of double layered, reversible one but she only had the front half done. So while I was ripping the yarn and winding it into a pull skein, I started thinking and thinking and came up with this pattern.

Like all my patterns, I like to make it easily alterable to any size and I try to make swatching a minimum (no swatching needed but those that insist, swatch as you go).

This cloche has already been adopted by my first customer but if you would like me to custom make one for you, (contact me. If you would like to make this cloche for yourself or as a gift or charity item, I have provided this pattern free here. I would be delighted if you sent me a picture of your cloche you made from my pattern. If you find any problems in my pattern, please contact me. If you know the solution, please send it to me so I can update the pattern. Thanks!

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